BEACHES:  All beaches in St. Maarten/St. Martin (SXM) are, by law accessible to the public, although there will be a charge to use lounges, etc.  You will see topless sunbathing and nudity at many of the beaches.  It is more of a rarity at hotel beaches such as Pelican & Dawn Beach.  The first six listed are within 10 minutes of Pelican.  Simpson Bay Beach is just down the street from Pelican/Flamingo between Picante’s Restaurant/Atrium and Royal Palm.  To reach the others, pass the airport and Casino Royale/Cheri’s and take 2^nd left at now closed Mullet Bay reception area.  Then follow directions listed.

Simpson Bay Beach (also known as Kim Sha Beach)—the only good shelling beach on the island.

Mullet Bay Beach:  a beautiful crescent shaped beach, very quiet now as the resort has not been rebuilt after the hurricane.  Most seagrape and palms struck by “Lenny” so not as pretty as it was, but we still like the far end of this  beach because it is so quiet.  Follow signs to the left for beach parking—or, to go to the quieter end (as we do), follow main road until you see a sign for the Towers on your right.  Park under the seagrape trees on your right and walk across the golf course to the beach, walking to the far right.

Cupocoy Beach:  Pass Sapphire Beach Club/Ocean Club on your left.  Take left just after Ocean Club & drive West on the dirt road that begins there until you see a number of cars parked near the western-most beach and the road ends.  There is a tabletop bar at the entrance if you need refreshments.

Baie Long: Named one of the ten most beautiful beaches in the world.  Pass Sapphire/Ocean Club and go past border marker.  Take a left at sign for LaSammana and turn right before the resort.  When you see chain link fence on your left, you’ve found it.  Water a bit rough here, but a quiet, spectacular beach.

Baie Prune:  Follow directions to Baie Long.  Pass Baie Long and drive for at least a couple of miles until you see another chain link fence on your left.

Calm water, lovely homes along this stretch of beach.  Tends to be quiet.

Baie Rouge:  Same route past Sapphire/Ocean Club & Baie Prune.  Stay on main road until you see sign (easy to miss) for beach on your left, past a cement wall before curve in road.  This beach has beautiful mountain scenery and rock formations. Water usually calm. Suggest you sit to the far right, as there are some slippery rocks on other parts of the beach.   Excellent snorkeling & interesting underwater formations thru cave to far right.  If you are a strong swimmer, you can swim thru hole in the rock & come out near another beautiful small beach—great if you’re looking to be “alone”.   There are a couple of beach bars for food & drink on the beach and you can rent chairs/umbrellas.

Dawn Beach:  on the other side of the island—go around salt pond near P-Burg to the left and follow signs to the new Westin Resort.  Before turning the bend to go to the entrance and parking garage, turn into the first lot on the left.  Go to the end to park.  Follow access path around left side of the hotel onto Dawn Beach.  You can use the Westin’s bathrooms near pool.  If the parking lot is closed, go into the parking garage and exit toward the beach from doors which exit into that parking lot.  Take the same access path mentioned above. 

Guana Bay:  Head toward P-Burg.  After taking right @ Grande Marche, drive down and take left along salt pond.  Take another left at end of salt pond and follow signs to Guana Bay.  This beach has HUGE waves if you like body surfing—no other beach on the island is like this one.  Not suitable for young children(or wimps, like me!)Strong undertow—be careful!

Orient Bay:  about ½ hour from Pelican, it has become our favorite beach, even though it has become quite developed over the years.  On the breezy, windward side of the island, always comfortable.  Pass thru Grand Case and follow signs to Orient Bay, passing the first sign on the left for Baie Orientale.  When you see a tall electrical tower on your right at the top of the hill, take the left just before it, winding thru a residential area to the beach…follow signs to La Playa.  Park near Bikini Beach (there are generally two brightly colored sailboats on beach in this area), especially if you have rented beach chairs/umbrellas from Pelican or another vendor for the week (highly recommended) .  We like this area because it is quieter & the only section of beach that is not wall to wall beach chairs. Bikini Beach Bar has decent food, Thai choices, love their huge wrap sandwiches! The have a regular, pricier menu on the tables, but you need to ask for the sandwich menu @ the bar.    The far right of this beach is the famous Club Orient Bay Resort, a naturalist resort.  No cameras/cell phones allowed when you walk on the resort beach, understandably!  There are several beach bar/restaurants along the beach, so if you don’t have your own chairs, etc. and want to rent them, be aware that the prices vary widely… we think Kon-Tiki (look for the sign & red umbrellas) has the best food—so rent from them. Kon-Tiki hut offers excellent pizzas & sandwiches, restaurant has pricier full meals. Should be about $12- for 2 lounges/umbrella and often a drink…negotiate! You’ll see parasailers, windsurfers, jet skis here & can rent them.  There are several shops along the beach, also .  The view from the road above Orient is one of the most spectacular in the Caribbean!

Pinel Island:  Follow directions to Orient Beach, but look for signs on the left to French Cul de Sac & Pinel Island.  Locals take boatloads of people back and forth to Pinel all day long for $7.00 round trip per person.  It is only a 5 minute ride.  Pinel is a very small island with a pretty beach and very calm water.  You can bring your cooler, chairs, etc or rent them there….$18- for 2 lounge chairs/umbrella.   There is an excellent beach bar/restaurant, Karbuni-cash only, lunch for two could run $50-.  Yellow Beach Bar a bit less pricy.  Last boat leaves @ 4 PM…we LOVE it here!!!  Avoid busy cruise ship days & Sunday when all the locals go…we go on Mondays & bring  our lunch & chairs.

Great Bay Beach:   If the heat of the day gets to you while shopping in P-Burg, there is a very nice beach behind the shops on the bay—jump in and cool off!

RESTAURANTS:

**Phone numbers are listed on a page of St. Maarten Nights magazine, which you can pick up at the airport, in one of the Pelican Marina shops, or around the island……

IMPORTANT—On the Dutch side, “most” restaurants add 15% service charge to your bill, be sure to check.   In restaurants on the French side, the gratuity is included in the price of the meal, no matter what they tell you--  don’t overpay!  We spoke to several French people on the island and have traveled in France and this is what they have told us… for excellent service leave 1 or 2 Euros additional or a bit more if your evening was truly memorable.     Dress is neat casual at all restaurants.  Long pants not necessary for men.

EURO EXCHANGE RATES—In a word, OUCH!  In the past, we’ve always had a few fine meals on the French side for about the same price as many Dutch side restaurants….the setting, the food, the presentation, the service made the experience worth it even if the prices were a “bit” higher in some cases.  At a 50% premium this year, though, we were more selective than usual!  For those of you who’ve read my past guides about how to pay to get the best rate  (cash, charge in Euro’s, etc)…EVERYTHING has changed this year!  You need to pay more attention. Some of the restaurants were giving more favorable exchange rates, saving you 10 to 20%, but they obviously can’t give the food away, so $1- for 1 Euro is rare now! Some now have two credit card machines and will calculate the exchange rate and let you charge in dollars, thereby saving you the conversion fee by your bank.   We’ve heard that several restaurants on the French side will be opening on the Dutch side, using U.S. dollars to woo the American tourists.  Believe me, it was spookily quiet in the restaurants on the French side this summer. 

GRAND CASE:

Aptly named “Gourmet Village”—it is our favorite area for dining and we strongly suggest you spend a couple of evenings here.  This charming town in the culinary capital of the Caribbean!  Many French chefs retire to open restaurants.  There isn’t a bad meal on the street. Many more prix fixe offers this year that help keep the cost down.

Here are some suggestions, but just walk up and down the street and see what specials of the day beckon you—you can’t go wrong in this town!

In the off season, if you dine by 6:30 PM, you’ll enjoy seeing the beach  scenery during the daylight & also lit up at night & won’t need a reservation.  In the winter a reservation is necessary.

·        Le Pressior:  next to the Lolos,  not direct waterfront, but location was not noisy.  Never knew it was there until we read an article in Caribbean Travel & Life.   Our # 1 pick for food, service, presentation  & surroundings.   Lovely Antillian house, atmosphere different from other G.Case restaurants.  Excellent wines by the glass

·        Fish Pot:  On the water, large menu, including a prix fix 3 course “death by lobster”! menu

·        Tastevins: one of the prettiest at night.  $60- three course prix fix including wine was excellent

·        Il Nettuno:  specializes in seafood & Italian.  We also stop for a drink at their bar before eating next door at the Lolos.

·        Chez Martine: romantic seaside setting

·        Rainbow:  on the far end of the street (beginning of street from Marigot direction).  A bit more gourmet.  Excellent salmon in puff pastry and unusual pasta dish with Thai Curry sauce when we were there.  New 2^nd floor deck open for drinks, appetizers or desert with wonderful view of the water.

·        L’California:  (closed Monday) was once a favorite, but new owners this year and service was not “polished” as before.   They were the only restaurant to offer 1 Euro for $1-, so I was not surprised.  Several friends joining us for the first time really liked it…pizzas to full meals and there is still that stunning view and nice décor, so for the reasonable price,  I still suggest it.

·        L’Auberge Gourmand:  Same owner as Tastevins across the street. A bit noisy, as on the street, French farmhouse atmosphere and GREAT food.

·        Lolos:   sit on picnic tables overlooking  the beach in Grand Case, a unique dining experience!  Food grilled at several stands by locals.  Experience island cooking at reasonable prices AND negotiate, as were able to get $1 for 1 Euro at some stands. Cash.

***Grand Case has some nice boutiques/art galleries and many are open late at night to browse in after dinner. *** If you happen to be there during July, find out the date for Emancipation Day festivities (July 21 this year).   The main street on the end where the Lolos are was closed down for the celebration, but there were fireworks over the water around 9 PM, which we enjoyed watching from L’California! 

MARIGOT HARBOR FRONT:

·        Claude’s Mini Club:--always a favorite—don’t miss their Wed night buffet…make a reservation… which includes lobster and MANY other items. $60- pp including unlimited wine, tip and a wonderful entertainer during dinner.  Atmosphere like a tree house in the palms.  About 1 block down from Craft Market.

·        Sarafina: (across from outdoor market)   Don’t miss it!  Huge selection of desserts, pastries that are like “artwork” to the eye, even better to eat!  Also has selection of sandwiches & pizza for lunch.

***Check out the West Indies Mall and use their bathroom even if you don’t have to…$1 charge & worth it!    Felt sad in a way to see this modern, very upscale, air conditioned mall on the island, but it is impressive.  Has a couple of restaurants and coffee shops, too.

***Although the craft market is open every day, Wed & Sat are the most colorful with more interesting & artistic goods for sale in addition to the typical tourist items like t-shirts, etc. (although with tourism down, there were fewer crafts people than in past years) Fresh fish, veggies, fruits and great spices are sold by the locals.   

MARINA PORT ROYALE:

(around the corner from harbor front)

Most restaurants in this area closed on Sundays during the off season.

·        Brasserie de la Gare:   Our FAVORITE bistro in the area.  Newly remodeled, and their prices have gone up, but still good food.  Pizzas and full meals, with crepes for dessert.  The fun loving Maitre’d is reason enough to go!

·        Main de la Pate:    Next door to BDLG, a bit more reasonably priced & good food, as well

·        L’Tropicana:  Small & popular, would make a reservation if you want to sit inside near railing overlooking marina (our choice)  Their 3 course prix fix dinner for $40- is a bargain, check out selections on menu in front.  This year we had good snapper, with a huge portion of escargot/puff pastry(the best we’ve ever had)  for an appetizer and “to die for” crème brulee & chocolate mousse  for dessert!  This restaurant is ALWAYS on our list…superb.

·        Le Petit Auberge near L’Tropicana also good.  You have to walk around the friendly owner’s big dog in this small restaurant…I like any animal lovers J  See my notes on Pelican Info for the special boat trip/dinner here.

PHILIPSBURG:

(Directions from the pier, facing the water)

·        Kangaroo Court:  Down alley next to courthouse.  We love it for its shaded courtyard atmosphere, good food & “furry” friends.. great for breakfast, lunch, coffee, desserts.  Their version of Dunkin Donuts Coffee Coolata called a “Frappucino” is excellent.

·        Barefoot Terrace:  overlooking the beach on the pier, nice islandly atmosphere, trendy local food….open for Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner.

·        Antoines:  one of the few French restaurants on the Dutch side, nice for lunch, 1 block past L’Escargot on the water—a bit of a walk from the pier. 

·        Au Petite Café:  Olde Street, charming French owner, GREAT food, breakfast, sandwiches/crepes/pizza.  They really try hard to please, check it out!

·        Taloula Mango’s:  On the new brick boardwalk, Sint Rose Arcade, far end of Front Street.   Closest place to park is at Bobby’s Marina if space available.  2 for 1 happy hour Friday 5 – 7.  Jazz on Sundays @ 7 PM (check day & time to be sure)  Sit on upper outside deck….great views of cruise ships.  Vegetarian choices at lunch.  Tapas, pizzas, full meals….good, not great food.  

·        Pasanggrahan Royal Inn:  the place to go if you want a little history, on the far end of Front Street, on the water to the left of pier.  Was once Queen Willhelmina’s residence, it’s the island’s oldest and most colonial inn.  Exc. Food—lunch only.

·        L’Escargot:  to the right of the pier.  Brightly colored Antillean house, worth a look inside, even if you don’t eat there.  We FINALLY ate there for lunch this year.  Food was decent, not outstanding & a bit pricey.  Stop for a drink to absorb the atmosphere, anyway!

·        Shivsagar  #20 Front Street, upstairs.  A couple in our group who love Indian food  said this was the BEST  they’ve ever had and said they were treated royally, even an escort to their car at night…which,sad to say, is probably a very smart thing when dining in town at night.

SIMPSON BAY/PELICAN RESORT AREA:

·        Tutta Pasta: (Closed Sat)Very small place,  Upstairs facing yacht harbor in Plaza del Lago.  Was a favorite on the Dutch side , but service not as good as it used to be now that Leon is gone & view now obstructed by buildings.    I still mention it because it is close to Pelican and the large variety of pastas under $15.00 are good.

·        Top Carrot:   Plaza del Lago  also. Open 7 – 6, LOVE it.  Healthy breakfasts, sandwiches, salads, vegetarian choices.  Blender drinks with natural real fruit—try their mozzarella or feta with tomatoes & fresh basil on homemade toast—yum!  Excellent coffee & (not so healthy!) cookies & desserts, too. They also sell many health food items.

·        Zee Best: (Closed Monday)  Plaza del Lago , branch of popular Marigot restaurant, run by very friendly Canadian.  Open for breakfast & lunch. GREAT pastries, crepes, omelets, vegetarian choices. The sign says “Great French food without the Attitude” (although we can HONESTLY say we have never encountered that so-called “attitude” on the French side!)  and we voted this restaurant “zee best” for breakfast in Simpson Bay!  Another branch is at Port dePlaisance, with better atmosphere, overlooking the yacht harbor.

·        LeSuciere Boulangerie,(French Bakery)  just past Plaza del Lago on the left on the lagoon, next to Fed Ex…WOW…don’t miss it!!!!   Sit on palm shaded deck overlooking bay, same owner as bakery on Marigot waterfront.  No cooking facilities, but great for a light breakfast or afternoon treat.  They serve strong European coffee and also American coffee, if you ask.

·        Au Pain de LuCre , great new addition at Pelican! Open 8 AM to 10 PM.   Smaller selection than LeSuciere, but for a short walk to pastries, breads, breakfast, lunch, pizzas, it’s excellent.  Order (early) their roast chicken to go for a dinner in some night.

·        MacDonald’s:  Love GREAT food, but have to confess, as the Dutch side is already so commercial, bringing MacD’s to Simpson Bay didn’t make me unhappy!

·        Saratoga, Plaza del Lago, was finally open during our visit this year and we voted it # 1 for dining in Simpson Bay. Salmon in puff pastry and Ahi Tuna were superb.  Knowlegable, friendly service.

·        Halsey’s , near bridge pricy, but excellent creative dishes.

·        Pineapple Pete’s:  Has become our favorite local, reasonably priced restaurant and we ended up there several nights this year.  They try hard to please, VERY friendly staff, large menu.  LOVE their lobster bisque, equal to many we’ve had on the French side, and Lobster Thermador excellent, also.  Good entertainment, especially enjoyed guitarist Ronny  Santana, there most nights 7 – 10.

·        LaTerrasse:  @ Port de Plaisance  $28- Sunday Champagne Buffet Brunch is GREAT and a BARGAIN!  11 & 1 PM seatings.  Elegant setting, large selection of food which included shrimp, king crab, fish, meats, omelets made to order, wonderful desserts.   Excellent musical entertainment.  Even if you don’t dine here, check out this complex with its elegant casino, yacht harbor & grounds—on the left on the road to Marigot.

·        Peg Leg Pub has moved from 3 Palms Plaza to outside terrace next to casino at Port de Plaisance.  Meat lovers in our group rated it # 1 for steak.  Friendly service, nice atmosphere.  Exc. Entertainment.  Seek out “Island Drifters”, mellow American standards along with Caribbean tunes, were there on Friday nights while we visited.

·        Buccaneer Bar: next to Atrium & Indiana Restaurant a great spot to watch the sunset on a picnic table overlooking the bay.  $12- Mahi or Tuna Sandwiches good and you can’t beat their “daily special  shooters” after dinner  for $1.00  J

·        Mary’s Boon:  Heading toward the airport, take a left just before airport fence and wind down toward the right to a unique & quaint Caribbean Inn on a beautiful stretch of  beach.  Charming!!  Beach chairs are included if you buy lunch.  We think the planes landing nearby are part of the fun.  A limited dinner menu is served nightly...the menu is set for the week, if what they are serving appeals, make a reservation.  There is an “honor” bar where you pour your own drinks, so come earlier for that and be SURE to ask about the history of Mary….fascinating story!

·        Sunset Beach Bar:  first left past airport. (topless women drink free!)  A hopping place! Watching the planes nearly land on you is quite a thrill!!

·        Ric’s Place:  Simpson Bay, over the bridge on the right next to the fish/veggie market.  American sports bar, good American style breakfast, very friendly owners.  Cash only.

·        Turtle Pier Bar:  near the airport on the lagoon, a cute place for breakfast, lunch or cocktails, but not a good choice for dinner, in our opinion.   Kids would enjoy seeing the turtles, monkeys, exotic birds.

**Just a note:  I generally don’t “bad mouth” a restaurant, but I’m making an exception for The Boathouse.  We gave it yet another try this year and got the same lousy service and mediocre food we’ve gotten in the past.  I even spoke to the manager about our continual dissatisfaction …others have shared the same views.  It’s attractive inside, close to Pelican and I guess they feel they don’t need to try….too bad. 

MAHO AREA PAST AIRPORT

·        Cheri’s Café:  (Closed Tuesday).  Voted best bar in the Caribbean!! Talk about trying hard!  Cheri, the owner is lovely and never takes her popularity for granted.  She and her staff work hard to please! Sandwiches and full meals. Excellent onion soup.  Cheri’s is THE PLACE TO BE on the Dutch side at night.   There is a live band nightly from 7:30  to 12. (Sweet Chocolate, the house band  is great…bring your camera!) The first couple of hours are a hoot..I won’t spoil the surprise, just GO & experience the fun! Dancing & Caribbean music played as the night goes on. They always seem to have the BEST entertainment.  There is an ice cream shop next to Cheri’s.   There are about 10 shops in the area and all are open late at night, until about 11 PM, except Sunday.   For safety sake, don’t park in the old Mullet Bay area, which is now deserted. You can park in the paid parking garage or use the free Valet Parking at the casino next door…they will also validate if you use the garage.(Park on 2^nd level and you can walk directly out to street level)

·        Sonesta Maho Hotel:  Discovered their superb buffet breakfast (includes omelet station)  this year ($15- pp) when we had to vacate our unit due to “plumbing issues” one morning early! (There are other restaurants in the area for lunch & dinner, but in our opinion the price does not justify the quality…EXCEPT FOR)

·        LaGondola:   Lovely, Air conditioned dining room in Atlantis Casino complex @ Cupocoy, just past Maho/Mullet Bay on right.  Our favorite Italian restaurant!   Would make a reservation here.  Friendly staff…David, the Headwaiter had just returned from a month in Italy and was in particularly good spirits…he takes care of his customers!  Had a hard time making a decision with their large, tempting menu.

CAR RENTAL:   You DEFINITELY need a car on the island to fully enjoy all the “nooks & crannies”.  The best deal changes every couple of years.  The key is finding the newest, “non-bummer” (remember, this is NOT the U.S) car models at the least price.  We used Leslie Bruce at Kenny’s Car Rental (named after his daughter!) for years and were very satisfied, but had issues reaching him on his ISP this year, so our group of 5 couples rented from Patrick @ Rent for Less and he was also excellent.  Just learned from a friend about this excellent site  www.caribbeancars.com   A great place to start your negotiations.  She was able to rent a small car for $100- a week in July and they gave her a Caribbean Card for buy one, get one dinners for free!  (This site gives info on buying that card, as well…on our list next visit!) —Regarding insurance, our gold card covers collision, but not personal injury ($6.00 a day). Be sure to check your insurance coverage!   **SXM Nights magazine has a page that shows the meaning of the road signs, which is helpful….keeps you off those one way streets, going in the WRONG direction!!**

MONEY MATTERS:

See info in the section above about the Euro Exchange Rate.    Suggest NOT using any Windward Island Bank (WIB) ATM’s as there are still reports of issues with them. RBTT has a better record & there is now one at Pelican outside the casino/lobby area.     There is sometimes a fee to cash travelers checks, so bring them only as a back up.  Cash is king and if you are doing any serious jewelry shopping, you should be able to negotiate an additional 3% off for cash after doing your best negotiating. U. S. $$ accepted everywhere. Most places will NOT take $100- bills.

French Side uses Euro $$--  As of July 2008, $1 = $1.56  Euro

Dutch Guilder:  Divide by 2, add 10% = U.S. $

***Be sure to call your credit and debit card bank before you leave home to inform them of your travel plans, otherwise they will most likely put a hold on your account if you don’t.  It’s also a good idea to take more than one credit card in case of a “glitch”

PHONES:

Pelican Voice Mail:  1999

(Dial 9 first from Pelican/Flamingo to get an outside line)

When calling from:

DUTCH TO DUTCH… Land & Cell :  Dial number as listed (7digits)

DUTCH TO FRENCH:

Land:  00590590 + 6 digit number

Cell:   00590690  + 6 digit number

FRENCH TO DUTCH….Land & Cell:  00599 + 7 digit number

FRENCH TO FRENCH:

Land:  0590 + 6 digit number

Cell:   0690 + 6 digit number

NORTH AMERICA TO DUTCH:

Land & Cell:  011 599 + 7 digit number

NORTH AMERICA TO FRENCH:

Land:  011 590 590 + 6 digit number

Cell:   011 590 690 + 6 digit number

It is very expensive to use land lines on the island .  Check your U.S. cell phone rates before leaving home…ours were $2.40 a minute on our plan…ouch!  See Judy Young’s e-mail and website for updated suggestions on renting cell phones on the island.  Some car rental companies provide free use of cell phones.  You just need to buy phone cards at a gas station.  Calls to the U.S. averaged only 30 cents a minute and incoming calls from the U.S. were free.

Sharon Harris @ Royal Palm has a good reputation for renting cell phones.  Contact her via e-mail  queenofsxm2000@yahoo.com 

ENTERTAINMENT:

Nightlife has “boomed” the past couple of years.  The K Pasa brochure highlights and reviews all the island entertainment & has the most up to date information…be sure to get a copy, usually can find one @ Pelican or ask where you can get one.  Thursday’s “Out & About” section in the Herald (which we read daily…it is entertainment in itself!) is also a good place to look for what’s happening. 

Cheri’s:  as mentioned is # 1 place to be @ night

Casino Royale:  next to Cheri’s has different acts, illusionist

Soprano’s:  Piano Bar, across from Cheri’s

Red Piano at Pelican VERY cozy and nice for after dinner drink & entertainment. 

Lee’s Bar & Grill: on the water, Simpson Bay, hopping with good local bands nightly as is our favorite  Pineapple Pete’s

Peg Leg Pub @ Port de Plaisance

MISC INFO (to use or lose!!)

·        St. Maarten/St. Martin websites:
www.pelicannews.net   (this guide is on that site)

·        www.pelicanresort.com

·        www.st-maarten-info.com 

·        www.st-maarten.com

·        www.SXM-TimeshareNews.com  (Sunterra info, etc)

·        www.jmbcommunications.com/sxm 

·         My “never leave home without it” list:  Sunshade and antenna decoration for car (ever tried to find your car out of dozens that are white and all look alike?), soft-sided cooler for the beach, plastic beach cups, lots of zip lock bags for ice, wet clothes, beach food, etc., clothes pins, stain removal stick, pant hangers, travel washing detergent, refreigerator magnets, snack foods (nuts, etc), waterproof wallet, wire ties to secure luggage, lens cleaner, small plastic spray bottle to spritz out wrinkles in clothing, waterproof one use camera, sharp knife (obviously in checked luggage J ), mailing envelopes.

·        Coffee on the island is mostly strong European coffee, so if that is not to your liking, bring coffee from home & use bottled water in your unit coffee maker.  Best “American” style coffee in the Simpson Bay area is right @ LaVeranda @ Pelican and it’s only $1.00!   Rick’s Place also has decent coffee. …. LaSuciere serves both European/American, so you can request what you want there. 

·        The islands are famous for selling quality batik, etc fashion.   Ananas in Marina Port Royale, Marigot, great fabrics, low prices. Lovely shop for bathing suits.  Laguna Blue sells reasonably priced Venetian glass jewelry & decorative items sold by a very friendly Italian, whose family has been in the glass business for decades.  If you are into trendy French fashion, check out the shops in Marina Port Royale and the street behind it.  Be open to vendors on the beaches—if you are not interested, tell them “no thank you”—they are polite, but we have done some of our best shopping on the beach—for pareos (beach cover-ups), artwork, local jewelry, handpainted t-shirts, etc. AND have met some interesting people!

·        Artizan, in Simpson Bay, 3 Palm Plaza, next to Dominos  has handcrafted gifts, interesting  (cheap) baskets.

·        There is a unique jewelry store w/handmade artistic jewelry just before the airport runway next to the road to Mary’s Boon.

·        There are several  art galleries around the island. Roland Richardson is a renowned SXM artist and his work is truly special.  Art lovers will not want to miss his main gallery on Rue de le Republic in Marigot or his other shop at LaSamanna. He is famous for his paintings of Flamboyant trees.  His etchings are wonderful, too.  Originals and quality giclee prints available.   Gingerbread Gallery in Marina Port Royale is excellent for Hatian art.  There is also a gallery behind behind Brasserie de la Gar in Marina  Port Royale and a couple in Grand Case as well as around the island in the countryside. The largest gallery, Minquet,(a branch near Cheri’s, too) is about 2 miles before Grand Case at the top of Raynaud Hill on the left…there are reasonably priced posters/prints, but we thought their prices for limited editions were too high & not high quality.  Open Mon-Sat 10 –7.  The very nice daughter of the artist runs the shop. Mazel Gallery @ 82 Front Street, upstairs in the Royal Palm Plaza is worth checking out!   We have bought some very reasonably priced original artwork from wandering artists (no overhead!)  during dinner at restaurants….be open to looking!

·        You can pick up tourist information in the luggage claim area at the airport.  BEWARE the tourist information kiosks around the island!! Their main job is to entice you to visit a timeshare.  You may want to do that—they often compensate you in the form of an expensive dinner at a nice restaurant or a boat trip that would cost $75- per couple (the presentation can be painful, I warn you!)  The same is true of those gals waving you down at the grocery store parking lot or speed bumps—we just wave back & smile at them!!  They are just trying to make a living so be kind to them…our pat answer is that we’ve “already had an invitation”!!

·        I STRONLY suggest that you can rent chairs/umbrellas for the week, as it will save you a LOT of $$ and give you the freedom of sitting in less crowded areas of the beaches.  Pelican does rent them, but we found a better deal and EXCELLENT service from this company who rents a variety of items.  Go to www.sxm-services.com/packlight  to see what they offer.  2 Chairs/Umbrella were $25- for the week & are delivered to you at the resort.  For longer stays on the island, consider buying them at Cost U Less or Ace in ColeBay.

·        Look for trip discount coupons in the tourist handouts. The Concierge office on the Marina Plaza has discount coupons.    Check out the Buy One/Get One restaurant package for sale  at www.caribbeancard.com   (also see my notes under Car Rental for possible free Caribbean Card offers)

·        Tired of the reggae music??  96.3 on the radio, mellow American music!

·        Simpson Bay Bridge “generally” opens  @ 9:30AM,  11:30 AM & 5:30PM  (low season) , so avoid those times if you don’t want to be in a traffic jam.

·        Shipwreck Shops/Lord & Hunter , Front Street, P-Burg and other island locations, including Pelican Resort has quality island-made products/souvenirs including Mosquito Milk—really works and is only sold in the islands.

·        Simpson Bay Pharmacy across from Pelican has a good selection of U.S. brand cosmetics & non-prescription medications.   There is a Dutch doctor in the plaza, who is excellent, but if you happen to forget a prescription, “no problem, mon”—the pharmacist will most likely give it to you without a prescription from the doctor! 

·        Post Office in Palapa Plaza, Simpson Bay   (unless someone is sick and then they just might not open at all—happened to us—this is the laid back Caribbean, after all).  You can also send mail at The Mailbox (quickest way) in the Palapa Center, Simpson Bay. We did a “test” this year and postcards mailed from Pelican’s postal box took over a month to get to the U.S…Those mailed at Mailbox 10 days.

·        Pelican has free internet use in the Concierge Center on the Marina Plaza, but there is generally a line.  Mailbox charges $5.00 a half hour, quick connections, several computers…worth it!

·        The Butterfly Farm near Orient Bay is a nice diversion—we really enjoyed it—be sure to take the “tour” and you’ll learn a lot…go early in the day before it gets hot!

·        Airport Parking is in lot across from the terminal.  You’ll get a ticket when you park.  Bring the ticket in with you and just before returning to your car, insert it in the Pay Station kiosk near the car rental counter in the terminal.  You will pay there & get a receipt.  When you depart the lot, you put the receipt in and the gate will go up.

·        You can buy Dutch cheese at the airport at departure—a real bargain.

·        We take our luggage over in the morning on the day of departure (airport opens @ 6 AM, get there before 9:30 and there are no lines) and return later in the day for the flight.  Pelican bellman will also hold your luggage for the day if you prefer….DON’T leave valuables in your car on your last day…or ANY day!

FOOD SHOPPING:

Peli Deli at Pelican Resort convenient & has good selection for a small grocery store, although a bit pricier than the large stores.    Carl & Son’s Bakery delivers goodies every morning.

Grande Marche:    On  the left on the road to Marigot, set back between Texaco Station & RBTT Bank, just before Port de Plaisance.    Open daily & 9 – 1 on Sunday. They accept credit cards.  The FABULOUS desserts/breads DO taste as good as they look!  Food is at least 30% more than in the U.S.  Good quality overall except for meat, which has been defrosted & is not up to our standards.

Grand Marche:  Take a right out of Pelican, take next right after KFC, continue to top of hill to rotary, bearing left around rotary.  This large grocery store is on the right about 1 mile down @ the rotary, close to Philipsburg.

Grande Marche Gourmet:    Smaller convenience store for basics in Simpson Bay on the right, heading toward airport.

Cost U Less:  Warehouse shopping has come to the island…amazing!  Large selection of frozen dinners, etc.—worth a stop, across from the P-Burg Grand Marche if you are staying for an extended period  and cook in a lot.

Match:   on the main road in Marigot on plaza on the right.  Large grocery store with exceptional selection of French wines & cheeses, but with the Euro exchange rate, “ouch”.

Fish Market:  Fresh fish & veggies, a colorful experience even if you don’t buy—just over the bridge on the lagoon in Simpson Bay.  They were about to open some stalls with crafts/restaurants, etc just after we left…check it out!

DIRECTIONS:

PHILIPSBURG:   Take a right out of Pelican/Flamingo.  Continue driving past KFC on your left.  Take your next right—a yellow building will be on your left as you turn. Bear right @ the rotary on the top of the hill and then go down the hill, following this road (breathtaking views along the way!) and it will eventually run into Front Street.  When you pass MacDonalds on your left, continue driving a short distance to the Town Square (with the Courthouse and Ballerina Jewelers on left & Burger King on right). Take a left @ Ballerina Jewelers and you will dead end @ the paid parking lot.  (I KNOW it is weird, but if the gate is up @ the Exit sign, you DO enter that way!!)  Otherwise, take a left & a quick right into the lot.  If full…it WILL be unless you get into town VERY early…., take a right when you reach the lot and your first left.  This will bring you to the Salt Pond area.  Park “free” along the pond or near the University.  When you leave town, keep the Salt Pond on your right & follow signs to the airport.  When you get to the rotary (Grand Marche supermarket on your left) bear to the left and continue over mountain.  At the bottom, take left.  **There is a new paved “one way road”…forks to the right before curve on hill….that you can also use during busy times to go over mountain….we see more goats than cars on this road & saw a huge pig this year !   Suggest you get into town early & perhaps have breakfast & shop before the heat of the day sets in. Shops generally open 9 – 5 Mon – Sat.  Check which days are the busy cruise ship days and avoid P-Burg, as it gets too crowded.  Best bargaining day is Saturday, as it is the least crowded.  Clean restrooms in Craft Market area behind Courthouse & Kangaroo Court, at MacDonald’s, the Casino, or Burger King. 90% of the stores sell jewelry.  Great buys on emeralds, especially.  You’ll be amazed at the selection and designs that you won’t see at home.  There are definitely bargains to be had if you know your prices.   We tell the jeweler (most are Indian) to give us the best price upfront & that we will be comparison shopping and will return if they are competitive (if you need the name of our favorite jewelers, let me know)  Many of the jewelers still like to “play the game” though and if you are comfortable with negotiating, bargain with them, but don’t insult them.  They are very proud and you won’t make a deal that way.  Beautiful linens at great prices, also.  Liquor prices in SXM the cheapest of any island. 

Summer 2008 Comment:  The stores were noticeably quiet this year, even when the cruise ships were in port. Due to the economy, people were just not in a buying frenzy as in the past.  We had some “veteran” shoppers in our group and we all agreed that the “negotiated” prices this year were better than ever!  They seemed desperate for sales.  

MARIGOT:   Instead of taking right near KFC, continue straight.  To reach waterfront area (where Mini Club, Sarafina   & the Outdoor Market is), take a left on Rue de Republic—you’ll see a sign pointing to Ft. Louis (a great view from up there!) and the hospital and a Texaco Station on the right.

Drive to the end and park in lot.  FYI, public toilet a few doors down from Bistro de le Mar, look for brightly colored Caribbean scene on building (please tip!)  also an “elegant” one in the West Indies Mall $1.00 charge and worth it!    Check out the sculpture of an island lady, done by an artist in Grand Case, whom we met one year .  To reach Marina Port Royale (Brasserie de lar Gar, Tropicana  & other bistros/shops) follow road along harborfront, water on your right about 1 mile to the end & round about.  Take a left & a right into parking lot…(Tourist Office will be in front of you)  There is often  a Rasta guy here who will “guide” you, he’s a bit weird, but harmless—don’t pay him!  Public toilet in Marina Port Royale on far side of Marina at Capitanerie and behind Brasserie de la Gar on the right.   Shops on the French Side are generally open 9 – 1 and 3- 7.

GRAND CASE: Follow the road to Marigot, but instead of taking left to waterfront, just keep driving a few miles.  The road does fork to the right as you enter the village of Grand Case, but follow it until you can take a left back to the one-way Main Street—there will be several restaurant/public parking signs where you turn.  You will wind thru a local neighborhood to the main street.  Take a right & another right into $4.00 pay lot (some restaurants reimburse, so get receipt) or drive down about a block for free parking, if available, on right, but will be a longer walk to restaurants.  During the day, you can park on the street and sometimes you will find street parking at night if you are lucky! You can also take a left on main road to reach L’California & other restaurants on that end of the street.  There is another paid lot across from L’California, but with the quieter restaurant scene this year due to the economy, be cautious in this secluded lot unless you are there with a group. 

PELICAN TIPS:

READ The Pelican News Info magazine in your room…the answers to most of your questions will be there!

The following will be in the unit at Pelican:  salt & pepper, hand & machine dish detergent, paper towel, toilet paper, garbage bags   They will replace mid week and on request at no charge. Bring pant hangers if you use them & call for more hangers if you need them.   Not necessary to tip maids, but they are so great & so in need of $$, we generally give them a little something.   Put your trash bags outside your unit where someone will see them daily & they will be picked up. 

Washers/dryers in most buildings.  For Pelican, get $2.00 tokens from Front Desk.   We mostly hand wash in the unit (bring clothes pins) & hang the clothes next to a fan, they dry quickly—or on line in the bathtub.

You will get a complete change of towels/sheets once a week.  Check which day is for your building….usually Tuesday for Saturday check-ins & Wednesday for Sunday check-ins.   Leave towels in one area near the door in bathroom.  The maids will clean all areas, except kitchen.  You can get another set of towels, but there will be a charge.  Note:  the maids are very friendly, but sometimes their English is poor, so if you need anything, call Housekeeping or Maintenance where you’ll get a supervisor who REALLY understands English! We always leave the “do not disturb” sign on when in the unit, as they generally knock on the door each day, “just checking”……we have never figured out why!

The toilets are on Caribbean time!!!  Don’t worry, be happy, they EVENTUALLY will flush, within a few minutes—or an hour, at times!

VERY, VERY IMPORTANT:  Heed the warning about throwing too much tissue or other “foreign” objects in the toilet unless you want a very unpleasant surprise!!

Beach towels:  You must leave a credit card imprint when checking in—get a final receipt from beach hut attendant when returning towels on the last day, as you’ll need that to check out and avoid a towel charge.  Just exchange your towel for a fresh one each day.  The towel hut at Pelican is up the hill from the reception area on the left and at the beach.

To be honest, Pelican/Flamingo is not our favorite beach, but on those days we don’t feel like driving, we head to the far right, past Pelican’s Beach Bar (which has exc. Food, especially Tuna & Mahi) and sit on that side, as it is quieter and much more comfortable, always a nice breeze on that side…called “Lenny’s Beach”, as it was created from the hurricane. Excellent snorkeling near the rock jetty.   

There is some type of entertainment many nights at Pelican, including the  “Red Piano”, which is a cozy spot for a drink.  They have had some exc. Entertainers there the past couple of years, including an Aussie singer when we were just there. 

Sunset sail from Pelican is WONDERFUL(usually Sunday or Monday) and a bargain at $10.00 including rum punch, beer,  soda, etc. —fills up fast…see the Concierge on the Marina Plaza for a ticket after you checkin…don’t miss it!

 I highly recommend the Calypso to Marigot lagoon cruise with dinner @ LaPetit Auberge inc drinks on board and a 3 course dinner w/wine or beer at the restaurant, inc. gratuity   $65- per person and worth it!

 Pelican has a Cocktail Party, usually Monday  at the Marina Plaza (location & day sometimes changes, so check) 5 PM—appetizers, red & white wine, rum punch and excellent band—it’s FUN!!!  Complimentary

Check out the BEAUTIFUL Pelican  Marina Residences with Judy Besta in the Sales Office. No pressure from her and she is knowledgeable about what’s new in the area!

CHECKOUT & DEPARTURE:

**DO A GOOD DEED: Bring any non-perishable  food to Debbie @ Aqua Marina Watersports @ Pelican, as she collects it for the children’s home.

We have found the shortest line is between 7 & 8 AM on the day of departure, although if you happen to back @ the resort after your last wonderful dining experience the night before & the lines are short, you can check out the night before. You must bring your final receipt from the Beach towel hut and your safe lock in order to check out @ Pelican.  You can drop off your keys when you finally leave in the box in front of the lobby before 10AM.  Again….we generally take our luggage over to the airport and check in before 9:30 AM to avoid lines there and enjoy our last few hours before returning for the afternoon flight. **For those changing units, Pelican makes it easy….they bring your new keys to YOU.  The procedure is in your Pelican Resort News in your unit. 

IMPORTANT SECURITY INFORMATION:

Safe Deposit lid can be picked up at check-in at Pelican (return at checkout to avoid charge) ….some units now  have electronic safes.   Box on the floor in bedroom closet.    DEFINITELY use it for all valuables and NEVER lock anything in your car that you wouldn’t mind parting with.  Use common sense here, as elsewhere in the world!  Do not leave valuables on the beach while swimming, even for 5 minutes. (Suggest you bring a waterproof wallet along with you)   Go to Marigot/Grand Case thru Cole Bay (take a right out of resort) at night.  We never go past Cheri’s at night, as there have been several car jackings in the Lowlands after dark.  Identity theft is rampant these days….so carry a copy of your passport, credit card numbers and the “regular” (not 800 number)  phone number to your credit card company, cell phone company phone number.  Never carry your social security card in your wallet.  If your health insurance company uses your SS number as your membership number, carry only a photocopy of the card with the number blacked out.  If your wallet is stolen, in addition to canceling your credit cards, contact the fraud dept. at any one of the three major credit bureaus www.experian.com  allows you to report fraud online and will forward the info to the other bureaus.

**A better option to carrying  more “paper” with you is to put all your security info on a thumb drive and just carry that**

SIDE TRIPS FROM ST. MAARTEN:

ANGUILLA:    Pronounced “ANG WILL A”, is about 20 minutes by ferry from Marigot Harborfront area.  Ferry leaves about every ½ hour in the morning.  No reservations needed, just show up. “Nels” often comes over on the early ferry to drum up business for the day—we’ve used him a couple of times, so ask if he is there and arrange for him to give you a tour of the island and drop you off at Shoal Bay and return to pick you up later to go back to the ferry.  Total price for the tour and driving for two should be about $30.00—he is a character and you’ll have to put up with his bragging about his racing boat (and he just might take you by his house to show it off to you!)—we like him, he is honest, as is everyone we’ve met on Anguilla.  Anguilla is so different in topography  from St. Maarten—flat & scrubby with lots of goats, several “rich & famous” type hotel hideaways, low key resorts, very friendly people—and only a couple of traffic lights.  The beautiful white sand beaches are the main reason to go.  If you haven’t connected with Nels in Marigot, when you get off the ferry in Blowing Point, work out a price for the short tour (about an hour) and a day at Shoal Bay.  They trust you—you pay at the end of the day.  There is a beach restaurant at Shoal Bay for lunch & good snorkeling.   You can rent a chair & umbrella for $10- per person.  Plan on about $35- per person for ferry roundtrip, inc. departure tax.

You are going to another “country”, so be sure to bring your passport.   Pelican also sponsors a day sail to Anguilla, which is fun!

ST. BARTH’S:  “Edge”, a motorized catamaran takes you to this charming small French island in about 45 minutes from Pelican’s dock. (Get discount tickets from your concierge)  The regular sailboat takes 2 hours and the seas are very rough—Edge is our strong preference, take Bonine if you are at all affected by motion, even though it is generally not needed.   Suggest you rent a car for the day—about $50- for a car the size of an Altoid Can (!).  They will tell you about it on the boat.  You can also do a taxi van tour for $12.00 per person, but they don’t like to turn the air conditioning on, so negotiate that!

 Communication can be a problem—most speak limited English.   After touring, which takes less than an hour, spend the afternoon on St. Jean’s Beach, near Eden Rock Hotel, which is only 10 minutes from the town of Gustavia, where you landed.  You can park there & poke in the several shops in the area and/or eat lunch at their seaside (pricey) restaurant.  There is a restroom to change your clothes, you can rent a chair/umbrella.  The water is beautiful & calm.  Walk down the beach & check out the landing strip @ the airport nearby!

SABA:  Flying over is an experience, as the landing strip is on the side of a mountain—kind of like landing on an aircraft carrier. You can also take Edge over and be there in about an hour.   Saba is a famous diving site, but has no beaches.  It is very small, mountainous with picture-postcard houses and only a couple of small inn-type hotels.  We found it charming and always enjoy seeing different cultures (relatives we suggested it to thought it was a terribly boring day)  If you are looking for excitement, go elsewhere, but if a day on a quaint island and having lunch sitting by a small pool with a book appeals, Saba is for you.

NEVIS:  ½ hour flight.  There is a new Four Seasons Resort with a spectacular golf course.  Service and pampering are key here (they spritz you with Perrier water while you’re sitting by the pool) and I could spend a long weekend relaxing here.  We have a friend who lives on the island, so enjoyed a wonderful tour.   This island is quite poor, no tourist shopping in town.  The sugar plantations turned into inns in the mountains are wonderful.  We even saw an elderly man carrying bundles of sugarcane up the mountain on a donkey—felt like we were in a time warp!

ST. KITTS:  Only 5 minutes by air from Nevis (the flight can be arranged “spur of the moment” from Nevis if you want to tour both islands in one day—flight is probably under $40-)  Also a poor island with sugarcane being the main industry.  Unlike Nevis, the main town has a bit of development including a small mall of shops.  Fort @ Brimstone Hill fascinating, as is tour of Caribatik to see island fabrics being made.  Saw wild monkeys in the mountains!  See the volcanic black sand beach.

There is a new Marriott Resort on the island. 

Elaine Lefebvre